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The Hayward Super Pump: motor installation

This is the first in a series of short articles addressing the replacement of motors for the most commonly encountered pool pumps in the pool/spa industry. This article will tackle the Hayward Super Pump and Super Pump II. The installation is the same for both models. Before purchasing your motor from your local pool and spa store, look at the old motor and find the specs label on top of the motor; it will tell you the horsepower (HP), usually _ HP, 1HP, or 1-1/2 HP. Only rarely will a residential pool be outfitted with a 2 HP pump or motor. Don't attempt to mismatch a pump and motor of different horsepower in order to save money as that could lead to premature wear from stress on either unit. In order to ascertain the HP of the pump you will need to get the part number from the impeller on the inside of the pump, but we will get to that later.

Before attempting any work on the pump, be sure that all power to the pump is off at the breaker. If equipped with a timer, you can turn the switch to the on position after turning the breaker off in order to make sure that power is not going to the motor. Of course, the motor should do nothing at that point. Using a multimeter is an even better precaution. You can purchase one at any home improvement store in the electrical department for around $25.00 or less. Using a 9/16" box wrench, remove the four bolts that hold the motor to the pump. If the motor is properly grounded outside the unit, use a " socket to remove the grounding clip on the motor. When you detach the motor from the pump you will find a round disc attached to a shaft. That is the impeller, which creates suction when spinning inside of the pump. In order to remove it you will need a strap wrench, or if it is not on too tight sometimes it can be loosened by hand, turning counter clockwise. The shaft must be held still at the opposite end in order to spin the impeller off the shaft. Using the " socket again, remove the plastic or metal cap at the end of the motor, held in place by one " screw.

Once the cap is off, the end of the shaft will be exposed. Hold it in place with a screwdriver, vice-grip pliers, or a box wrench. Don't worry about damaging any of the electrical components in close proximity to the shaft because you're installing a new motor anyway. Now that the impeller is off you can find a part number on its inside that will begin with SP.; this number will correspond to the HP of the pump. You can now trek down to your local pool/spa retailer with this info: 1. Motor HP, 2. Pump HP, and 3. A PS201 pump seal. Every time a motor is changed out a new seal must be installed and they retail for around $10 to $18. Be sure to tell your dealer that the motor is for a Hayward Super Pump. While at the pool store, pick up a diffuser gasket and housing gasket for the pump as they almost always are worn out. Replacing the housing gasket, which is embedded in the tank of the pump where the seal plate butts up, will prevent water from leaking from the wet end.

Back at home you can now begin reinstallation. Remove the motor mounting plate from the old motor by removing the four 9/16" bolts. Clean the mounting plate with soap and water and attach it to the new motor. The seal plate snaps into the mounting plate and is not held in place with bolts; the impeller keeps it in place, but before screwing the impeller back onto the shaft the PS201 seal must be pressed into the seal plate. Remove the old pump seal with a flat screwdriver, making sure not to allow the rubber casing of the old seal to remain behind. If the seal plate is old and especially dirty, it may be hard to see the rubber as it may appear to be part of the seal plate. A telltale sign will be impossible installation of the new seal. A good rule of thumb for anything mechanical: if you have to force it, something is wrong.

The tricky part of installing a new seal is knowing which half goes where, as they come in two sections and there are never instructions with the new seal. So, proceed slowly and pay attention to the way the old seal halves are positioned. If, however, you've removed the old seal already and can't remember the way that they came out, just keep in mind that porcelain should meet porcelain and the half with the rubber casing is the one that is pressed into the seal plate. When putting in a new seal I prefer to use a 100% silicone sealant around the hole where the seal half with the white porcelain is to be embedded. Use a small bead and don't get any on the porcelain of either half. Be sure not to touch either porcelain part with your fingers; use a clean rag when handling the seal halves. Be sure to keep the seal(s) oil and grime-free.

You are now ready to thread the impeller onto the motor shaft, holding the shaft in place the way you did before. Don't over tighten; thread it on until you meet resistance and it feels snug. Now it's time to wire up your new motor. The old motor should still be attached to the conduit leading from the timer or breaker box. There are only three wires: hot, common and ground. Typically they are black, white and green. The green wire is your ground and should be attached to the green grounding screw inside the motor. The other two can be interchanged, meaning that they be attached to either terminal. You don't need to remember which wire came off of which terminal from the old motor. Replace the diffuser, which is the cone-shaped housing that goes over the impeller, and bolt the motor assembly back to the pump. Be sure to lubricate the new gaskets you purchased with a Teflon lube. Don't use Vaseline or other petroleum products. You can buy a small 1 ounce tube of lube at your pool store for about $3.00.

Attach the outside grounding clip and copper grounding wire to the top of the motor, if so equipped. If there is no external ground, you can buy an 8 foot galvanized grounding rod and clamp and a couple of feet of copper grounding wire at a home improvement store for less than $20. The rod will need to be hammered into the ground close to the motor, leaving only about one to two inches exposed above ground to attach the clamp and wire. You can now fill the pump pot with water and allow a few seconds to observe any leaks. Replace the pump lid snugly and turn on power at the breaker. Turn on the switch at the timer if you have one and listen to the pump. It should purr quietly, however if the motor is not factory set to the proper voltage, don't fret. What I love about the new motors over the past decade is that you don't need to rewire the motor all over again in order to accommodate the electrical box. The new motors have a small plastic clip that is arrow-shaped and can be pulled out with needle-nose pliers and set to HI (220) or LOW (110). It will be almost immediately obvious if the motor is not running on the proper voltage. Allow it to run for about 10 to 20 seconds and listen; the motor will undulate, fast then slow, fast then slow if it is not on the proper setting: HI or Low. Once it is properly set you can replace the metal plate, near the cap at the end of the motor, which protects the wiring from weather and moisture. Allow the silicone around the seal to cure a couple of hours before running the pump continuously.

Hope this has helped.
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